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Saturday, 6th May – Cathedral Valley – Little White Horse
Canyon – Goblin Valley In the morning Austin’s Chuckwagon Motel offered free coffee, hot chocolate or tee at the adjoining General Store. There was also a bakery where we bought some pastries. We were on the road around 8:30 a.m. It was sunny, not much more than 5 °C! We stopped at the Visitor Center of Capitol Reef National Park and checked on the road conditions for Cathedral Valley. To be able to do the loop drive you have to cross a small river by car. But they said no problem with a jeep! At 9:15 a.m. we reached the river ford. I was a bit hesitant to try it as the water seemed quite high, but then we just did it, following the instructions of the ranger, and we made it through without problem! Cathedral Valley is a 58 miles long dirt road which is still part of Capitol Reef National Park. We passed through the colourful Bentonite Hills and stopped at Lower South Desert Overlook. Upper South Desert Overlook a few miles further on was the highlight with a terrific view. Then came Upper Cathedral Valley Overlook which looks down upon steep cliffs and monoliths. By 11:45 a.m. we reached Hartnet Junction which marked about half way of the tour. By now we had around 20 °C with sunshine and a cool wind. A few dark clouds appeared, but we were able to leave them behind. Another highlight were Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon and the peculiar Glass Mountain. Once more we passed through Bentonite Hills with table mountains in the distance. At 2 p.m. and after a 5 hours drive we were back on Highway 24. We had met only 7 other cars. |
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We drove through the Badlands around Caineville and reached the rather
desolate village of Hanksville at 2:15 p.m. We intended to spend the night
at the Wispering Sands Motel but the reception was closed with a sign at
the door "I'll be back soon". At least the cleaning ladies were still
around and they were kind enough to try to contact somebody for us. When
someone came round shortly afterwards we were lucky to get the last room!
Apparently the Wispering Sands was the only hotel in town that was still
operating! The large room was nice enough, but considering the location,
at $77 it was fairly expensive, even though it was a Saturday. We heard
afterwards that Sunday nights were charged at $10 only (!!) and Mondays at
$59.
After checking in we drove to Little White Horse Canyon on the road to Goblin Valley. It was 3:40 p.m. when we started off at the trailhead. There were quite a number of people around. Bell Canyon is left, LWHC to the right. We reached the entrance to the canyon after 15 minutes. After following it for 45 minutes we returned.
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Sunday, 7th May – Little Egypt – Arsenic Arch –
Leprechaun Canyon – Natural Bridges NM – Muley Point – Mokee Dugway -
Goosenecks State Park We checked out at 8 a.m. and bought muffins and a coffee at the petrol station. Then we drove south on Scenic Byway 95. Between Milemarker 20 and 21 we turned off right onto the scenic backway to Bull Creek Pass. After 1.6 miles on the dirt road we reached Little Egypt where we had our breakfast. Little Egypt is similar to Goblin Valley but much smaller and can be visited for free. The red rocks here are streaked with a white band which makes them perhaps even more interesting. We strolled around for 30 minutes, then returned on the same route and crossed Highway 95 into the other direction (east). After another 4.4 miles we reached Sahara Sands and from the top of a hill we were able to spot Arsenic Arch in the distance. We tried to hike down to it, but without a map or GPS it wasn't easy. In the end we gave up as we didn't want to spend too much time. We were back at the car at 10:45 a.m. and drove back onto the highway. 15 minutes later, at Milemarker 28.2, we turned left onto a dirt road that was the trailhead to Leprechaun Canyon which we reached after a short hike of 15 or 20 minutes. The first section is very narrow then the canyon widens with steep walls on both sides. At the end of a narrow tunnel it's hardly possible to continue so we went back. By 12 p.m. we were on the road again.
At the end of an hour we were back on the highway and turned further south onto the 261 to Mexican Hat. Shortly before reaching Moki Dugway we turned off to the right onto a dirt track to Muley Point. We reached the viewpoint at 4 p.m. and looked down upon Monument Valley in the distance. Then we drove down Moki Dugway which drops from 6425 to 1100 feet (335m) over 3 miles. This part of the highway is unpaved. From the viewpoint you can see the Valley of the Gods to the left and Monument Valley to the right. At 5 p.m. we reached Goosenecks State Park (no charge) where you look down upon the loops of the San Juan River. We found a motel room in Blanding at the Four Corners Inn ($50 incl. tax for a large room with 2 beds and continental breakfast). Most restaurants and the supermarket were closed on a Sunday, but the Old Tymer Restaurant was still open until 8 p.m. Their Mexican food was good ($22 with tip). |
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Monday, 8th May – Canyonlands National Park (Needles District) After shopping for some food we left around 8:30 a.m.
for the Needles District in Canyonlands
National Park. From Highway 191 we still had 34 miles to go. At 9:30 a.m. we reached
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Tuesday, 9th May – Potash Road, Canyonlands National Park
(Island in the Sky)
We did the 20 mins. trail (return) to Mesa Arch with the snowy La Sal Mountains in the background. Then we drove to Green River Overlook and Upheaval Dome. The latter is only worthwhile if you want to hike to the crater which takes around 30 mins. one-way. But as it was 4 p.m. already, we didn't take on the hike. We drove to Buck Canyon Overlook and Orange Cliffs Overlook. The afternoon light was great at Buck Canyon, but at Orange Cliffs the light was coming from the wrong side. From Grand View Point Overlook you could look as far as the Needles. Then we returned to Moab. We didn't visit Dead Horse Point State Park ($7) as we probably had a similar view from Potash Road already. At 5:40 p.m. we were back at the hotel. For dinner we went to the Moab Brewery which was just a short walk opposite our hotel. We had to wait a few minutes before we got a seat as it was busy. With the sun setting as late as 8 p.m. at this time of year, we didn't get round to watching a sunset yet. But at least it didn't get dark early. |
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Wednesday, 10th May – Morning Glory Arch – Fisher Towers –
La Sal Mountains Loop
At 11:30 a.m. we were on the road again and 30 minutes later we reached the Fisher Towers which are best viewed in the afternoon though. The 2.5 miles trail, however, can become very hot in the afternoon, especially in summer, as it is exposed to the sun. But we didn't feel like going on another hike right then. We drove to Cisco ghost town at the I-70 instead. On the way we passed historic Dewey Bridge which dates of 1910. We reached Cisco at 1 p.m. but it wasn't really worth the long drive. The town site is privately owned so that you can't just walk around, besides it looked more or less like a large dump with tumbledown houses and cars. At 2 p.m. we turned onto the La Sal Mountains Loop which winds up from Castle Valley with a view of the snow-covered mountain caps. A round trip from Moab on this road is around 60 miles. At 3 p.m. we were back at the hotel and I tried out the pool and spa. For dinner we went to Zax which has a good pizza and salad bar. |
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Thursday, 11th May – Arches National Park On Thursday we left by 9:15 a.m. towards Arches NP, my
favourite park. Last time we only had an afternoon to visit it, this time we
wanted to make up for what we had missed. Nevertheless we revisited the Windows
Section with North and South Window, Turret Arch and Double Arch. Then we drove
to Devils Garden This time we also wanted to hike to Delicate Arch, which is featured on many of Utah's number plates. At 3:10 p.m. we started off at the trailhead. For the 146m elevation over 1.5 miles we needed 35 minutes. By now it was pretty warm and there was no shade. Delicate Arch is best viewed in the late afternoon or at sunset. It made for a beautiful picture with the snowy La Sal Mountains in the background. At 5 p.m. we were back at the car, then we returned to Moab. For dinner we went to the Moab Brewery again. |
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Friday, 12th May – Monument Valley, Little Coal Mine Canyon Today was a long drive. We left Moab at 8:45 a.m. under a perfect blue sky. We went south, passing by Wilson Arch and the Navajo Twins in Bluff and arrived at Monument Valley Tribal Park at 11:45 a.m. The park belongs to the Navajo Indians. There's a fee of $5 per person. We did the 17-miles round trip on the dirt road in less than 1.5 hours. I would recommend a 4-wheel-drive for that. The views were nice enough, but there's not that much more to see really than what you already see from the viewpoint at the Visitor Center. In Kayenta we turned west onto Highway 160. At Tuba City we turned off onto Highway 264 towards Keams Canyon. After 15 miles on that road, just before milepost 337, a dirt road turns off to the left (there's no sign). Another 500m towards the windmill, then Coal Mine Canyon appears. It's similar to Bryce Canyon, much smaller but more colourful.
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Copyright © Katja Maue